Portland Wine

A Blog for Clients, Customers, and Wine Geeks everywhere.

May 2010 Newsletter

                                                                Romorantin!
This is what a French importer exclaimed as he strolled into our office. “Cool! Where did you get this wine?” (French-accented English perfected from years of hunting down obscure French wines and bringing them stateside.) And we agreed—it’s quite a find. We told him we were tasting it as a possible option for this month’s wine club. His distress at having none of it in his cache for us to sell made the decision for us. We love introducing obscure varietals from areas not commonly known, and this one takes the cake: Cour-Cheverny is an appellation created specifically for the one and only grape to come out of the region. This ancient vine has quite an interesting history. Thought to have been introduced by King Francis I of France (1494–1547), it’s a hybrid of Pinot Blanc and Gouias Blanc. The king, coming from the commune of Romorantin-Lathenay, suggests the name was thus created. This crossbreed, cultivated in the Loire Valley for centuries, miraculously escaped the phylloxera outbreak of the late 1860s. There’s no telling how it fell into obscurity, though perhaps it got squeezed out by its more famous neighbors Sancerre ( Sauvignon Blanc) and Vouvray (Chenin Blanc). Don’t let this influence you! We’re smitten with its likeness to white Burgundy, its fruity freshness, stone minerality, and lively acidity. Domaine Philippe Tessier is an all-organic estate. Salute!
As one Burgundy geek put it, “Burgundy is easy to like, but hard to understand,” and it’s really true. After years in the wine business I can claim only a rudimentary understanding of its complexities. Sure, anyone can spend hundreds or even thousands on a single bottle of Grand Cru Burgundy and be blown away, but that’s beside the point. The thrill is in the hunt because it’s all about place (terroir) and producer. This is where you need a Burgundy-savvy friend or wine merchant to point you in the right direction. When we say “place” we’re not kidding—a couple hundred yards or even feet can make a difference in this part of the world. Our red this month comes from one and a half hectares (3.7 acres) east of Chambolle-Musigny, a commune in Burgundy that incorporates its most famous vineyard in its name (Musigny). It’s at the northern end of the Cote d’Or, where silky and velvety Burgundies come from. In 2003, the estate became completely organic. They harvest and sort manually and ferment in open wooden vats. With the cautious use 15% new oak, this wine reflects the elegance and sophistication of the region.

Recipe

Sautéed Asparagus with Crispy Pancetta and Oyster Sauce
This dish qualifies as a fusion recipe and might not appear to go w/ this month’s wine selections at first glance. The flavor combinations of asparagus, pancetta, and oysters are appealing on their own but have an enhanced effect with both the mineral qualities of the Loire white and Burgundian red.
 

Ingredients:
One bunch asparagus –washed, trimmed, & cut in 1” pieces.

¼ pound pancetta – coarsely chopped.
2 Tablespoons oyster sauce.

Salt and White pepper to taste.
 

Instructions:
Blanch asparagus in pot of boiling salted water – about 2 minutes. In a large sauté pan, crisp the pancetta - remove and hold. Put blanched asparagus in pan w/ pancetta fat and sauté 1 minute. Return pancetta to pan with asparagus and add oyster sauce. Season and serve.
 

Wines:

Domaine Philippe Tessier
Cour-Cheverny
100% Romorantin
Appellation Cour-Cheverny Contrôlée
Vintage: 2007
This medium-bodied white is from the unique grape Romorantin, the only varietal grown in the AOC Cour-Cheverny. Medium bodied this wine still retains some minerality with nice acid on the finish. Reminiscent of Chablis in style, the soils there are silica-like, producing a dry, crisp white, beguiling when young yet also suitable to ageing, like its sister, Chardonnay.
 

Domaine Amiot-Servelle
Bourgogne
100% Pinot Noir
Region: Chambolle-Musigny, Burgundy
Vintage: 2006
This is an elegant style, earthy and subtle Burgundy with pretty cherry pie filling notes and hints of darker fruits finishing with firm acidity. Coming from an area near Chambolle-Musigny, this is a silky seductive example of a Bourgogne level wine. Like many of their Burgundian neighbors this estate uses organic practices.