Portland Wine

A Blog for Clients, Customers, and Wine Geeks everywhere.

      We start 2012 geeking out on biodynamic wine. You may ask, oh wine club faithful, what else is new? But really we have you to thank! Your support allows us to seek out these special wines and do something few others are doing. We think it’s really important to support environmentally conscious winemakers whose passion from vine to bottle is truly reflected in a great wine. Since we started the club, organic and biodynamic wines have come more and more into the spotlight. Right now they’re almost trendy. And that’s why we have to separate the wheat from the chaff, and continue to follow our passion in 2012. Happy new year!
      This month we travel to the Loire Valley, whose diversity in varietals ranges as much as their quality. You can find just about everything here—inexpensive to high end, Pinot Noir to Cab Franc to Malbec! One thing that is consistent among most wineries in the Loire is the practice of biodynamic viticulture.
      Our first wine comes from Domaine Huet, one of the most prominent estates in the Loire Valley. The estate is located in Vouvray, which lies to the east of Tours on the right bank of the Loire River. The region first began to produce wine in the year 372, and in 1936 the Vouvray Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée was created. The indigenous grape variety here is Chenin Blanc (or Pineau Blanc de la Loire, as the locals say), and it’s one of the most versatile varietals, capable of being made in all styles: dry, off-dry, semi-sweet, unctuous, and even sparkling. Huet’s Haut-Lieu Sec represents their dry version with just 0.8% residual sugar. It’s undetectable, due to being balanced out by the naturally high acidity this grape provides. Domaine Huet is one of the original practicing estates of biodynamic viticulture. Winemaker Noël Pinguet calls himself a “practicing nonbeliever” when it comes to biodynamics. He may not understand all the science behind it, but the superior results speak for themselves.
      Just a little farther up the Loire River lies the AOC of Touraine-Mesland, where our second wine comes from. Winemaker Vincent Girault’s family has been working in wine production since 1854 in all aspects of the industry, from tending vines and producing fine wines, to selling wines, and even cooperage (the art of handcrafting wine barrels). This wine is a blend of Gamay, Côt, and Cabernet Franc. All these vines are biodynamically farmed and range in age from 20 to 50 years old. The subtlety of this wine allows it to pair well with less hearty meat, like game and chicken, yet it can also be a perfect match for salads and cheese.

2010 Domaine Huet Le Haut-Lieu Sec
This dry, medium-bodied Chenin Blanc from the renowned Loire estate of Domaine Huet has floral, green apple, and lemon aromatics. The palate is flush with quince and mineral tones with faint hints of orange blossom and honeysuckle. Dry yet plush, with a refreshing finish, this wine pairs well with anything from salad to salmon, but it’s a great sipper on its own as well. Biodynamic.
 

2007 Clos de la Briderie Touraine-Mesland
This Loire Valley red is made up of three varietals: Côt Noir (Malbec), Cabernet Franc, and Gamay. There are lots of things going on here in this subtle, medium-bodied wine. Peppercorns, chocolate-covered cherries, dried cranberry, some violet notes, and graphite. And that’s just the nose! These aromas carry over, although they’re more subdued, to the palate. Pairs best with game meats. All biodynamic viticulture.
 

January 2012 Recipe

Geek wines such as these do not require the distractions of complicated food pairings but rather simple flavors and combinations. A pan-fried portion of fresh fish served with a light crème sauce* of white wine, tarragon, and bacon would do justice to the Huet. For this month’s red, which has unpolished floral and peppercorn qualities, a crispy roast chicken rubbed with white pepper, course salt, and lemon does the trick. As it turns out, the following sauce recipe works quite well with both of the above suggestions.

Typical French Cream Sauce

This sauce can hold on the stovetop for a couple of hours under low heat but I suggest doing it closer to the finish.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
-1 cup heavy cream
-1 cup white wine
-8 ounce package of bacon sliced into lardons (matchstick rectangles)
-1/2 small dice shallot
- 2 TBL chopped fresh tarragon
-2 TBL butter

Instructions
-Cook bacon in pan until crisp. Remove and hold bacon, and pour off most of the fat from pan.
-Add diced shallot to pan with remaining bacon fat under medium heat and cook until translucent.
-Raise heat to high and add white wine … allow wine to reduce by ½.
-Add cream to pan with onion/wine mixture. Stir and bring to a simmer.
-Add tarragon to mixture and reduce heat to low.
-Stir in butter to finish.

-Use bacon as a garnish to the sauce and protein when plating. I usually portion the sauce onto the plate, place the protein on top of the sauce, and then garnish the bacon on top of the protein and around the plate. This is especially helpful when one of the guests prefers not to eat pork because we can just skip this step.

*There is absolutely nothing ever light about a crème sauce except the portion size.